Weaving
art is closely related to the systems of knowledge, culture, belief,
environment and social organizational systems of the society. The quality of
weaving is usually seen from the quality of the materials, the beauty of the
color, motifs, patterns and variety of decorations. To produce quality work, it
is necessary to work hard in learning and following every weaving process, such
as in the process of binding the thread on the lungsin (hemba). The
columns that have been drawn or designed, are tightly tied so that the thread
does not shift while or after the motif is drawn or when it is tied. This stage
should be thorough (drawing and binding) because the tightly tied warp thread
sheet consists of 4 to 10 liran/layer
(hanai). In 1 liran, there are
about 2.520 strands of yarn, and to produce 1 sheet of cloth it takes at least
2 liran so that there are about 5.040
strands of yarn in one sheet of woven cloth. Further, one time drawing or tying
motifs will produce multiple cloth with the same motif.
On Wednesday, November 4, 2020, the weaving group in Tanatuku continue to practise the process of drawing and tying motifs, guided by weaving coach Mama Yustina. The purpose of binding a thread (hondung) is the originally white thread if it is tied, and the motif that is covered by plastic rope will not be exposed to dye. Similarly, when the motif will be colored red and other colors, so that later when it is dyed blue, the tied part will not be exposed to blue dye. Mama Yustina insists that the important thing to note when drawing and tying motifs is to distinguish the knots of the ties, so that after coloring process, there is no mistake in the order of opening the ties.
Sherli Konda Ngguna, a weaving group participant asked in the local language, "Nggiki hama ka nyuma yia ba ndapa pingu a pa image, ma nggambar la karata a ma njala manu, rihi ka la luakamba?" (what about us who are not good at drawing, it is hard drawing just on paper what about motif on a thread?). Mama Yustina explained, "Indeed, drawing directly on the thread is done by the expert because when it is wrong it will be difficult to remove the scars of the image because later the thread strands will be thinning, but it does not harm if you want to train yourself, because next you will draw yourself, then have to be more enterprising in learning to design motifs", she explained. Tying the thread or hondung is usually done very tightly so that the bound part is not affected by the color. Well, it is not as easy as it seems, raffia straps should be treated with caution, too forced will break it up, otherwise, the toned dyes can filtrate and damage the results of weaving cloth.
There
are currently 5 lungsin (hemba)
presented in a device called kapala
that is in the process of bonding. And each kapala
has 8 layers or liran. From these 8 liran will later produce 20 sheets
of woven cloth. Therefore, the
participants of the tie weaving group are very enthusiastic to do the process
of tying. The passion to be able to produce homemade cloth makes them impatient
to come to the next stage. There is a sense of pride to master the weaving
crafts. May their togetherness keep them synergizing for their welfare. ***
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