The
people of Sumba have a habit or tradition of weaving, and it becomes a tourism
attraction until now, and develops the local community's economy as well. Tied
weaving is an inseparable part of the culture in Sumba. Then, what is the real
reason for the Sumbanese to weave? This answer can be referred to the early
period when the Sumbanese began to weave around the 1800-1900s until now.
According to the observer of Sumbanese tied weave, Jonathan Hani, there are three reasons why Sumbanese people weave in different periods. First, weaving is part of the ritual of offering thanksgiving to God; second, weaving shows the social status of the Sumba people; third, weaving is done to meet basic needs. The three reasons above are factors in the existence of Sumba tied weaving until now, even the woven cloth is known worldwide. Currently, the weaving group of Stube-HEMAT keeps their enthusiasm to complete the process. Every Wednesday, the participants gather and work together to complete each process and start the weaving stage.
The stage of weaving that the participants have done before, is, first, separating each ‘liran’ (coloring stage) combined into one or ‘biara’; second, spreading or ‘walah liran’ on the ‘wanggi’ (bamboo structure) which had previously been separated through the ‘biara’ process and tidying up the position of the motif as the same as the beginning motif; third, tidying the motif or ‘tidihu liran’ that has been stretched in the ‘wanggi’, fitting the position of each ties based on the former motif; fourth, separating each strand of attached thread by inserting a thin bamboo with a pointed tip between the strands and ending with the insertion of a long piece of bamboo as a tool to make ‘pawunang’ or determiner; fifth, ‘hawulur pamawang’ or weft thread that has also been dyed prepared by being rolled on a stick called ‘pamawang’; sixth, ‘parabat’ or the process of inserting a thin piece of bamboo between the threads as a sign of the beginning the weaving process; seventh, weaving or ‘tinung’. It takes two weeks (intensively done) or 4-5 weeks if it is done in the spare time to complete one 'liran' or ‘hemba’.
During
the processes, the participants of the Stube-HEMAT weaving group learned many
new things. In the beginning they thought that once the coloring was finished,
they will start to weave, but they found out a few more steps that must be
completed until the weaving stage. There is satisfaction and happiness among
the participants when they have completed the previous stages well and now they
are entering the weaving process. Even though some of them are not yet good at
weaving, they are so curious to enter the loom circle and try to start.
May Nggiri, one of the participants, admitted that she was so proud to be part of the weaving group because she finally understood well how the works of a weaver, from the winding the thread stage to weaving. She also tried to learn how to weave her sarong with confidence and prudence. A happy smile appeared on her face and so did on the others’.
Currently, they are in the process of weaving. No less interesting, these skills will be combined with an understanding of creative business, as their efforts to understand the strategy in developing tied weaving in the future.***
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